Almost everyone who comes to El Chaltén walks towards Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. The Huemul Circuit goes the other way: it leaves town to the south-west, climbs to Paso del Viento, goes around Cerro Huemul above the Viedma Glacier and drops over Paso Huemul to Lago Viedma. It is about 38 km by our own track, with 2,140 m of ascent in all and 1,403 m at the highest point. It is the one way to stand face to face with the Southern Ice Field after walking out of town.
If you were searching for a "Paso del Hielo": there is no pass of that name here. The passes that lead to the ice field from El Chaltén are Paso del Viento, to the south, and Paso Marconi, to the north.
The route, day by day
| Stage | Distance | Ascent | Night | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | El Chaltén → Laguna Toro | 16 km | 550 m | Laguna Toro |
| Day 2 | Laguna Toro → Paso del Viento | 10 km | 600 m | Paso del Viento camp |
| Day 3 | Paso del Viento → Paso Huemul → Bahía Témpanos | 9 km | 600 m | Bahía Témpanos |
| Day 4 | Viedma Glacier by boat → Bahía Túnel → El Chaltén | 5 km | · | Boat and transfer |
Approximate figures for our trek. The order and the camps may change with the weather and the river.
Day 1: from town to Laguna Toro
You walk out of town on the Pliegue Tumbado trail: steppe and bog with Fitz Roy behind you, a climb to about 1,077 metres and the drop into the Río Túnel valley through lenga woods. At the end Laguna Toro appears, grey with glacial water, with the Túnel Glacier opposite. That is the first camp. If four days is too many, Laguna Toro on its own takes two, from US$650.
Day 2: the Río Túnel and Paso del Viento
The day starts with the river. Depending on its level, the Río Túnel is crossed by Tyrolean traverse: a cable from bank to bank, with a harness. It is not hard, but it has to be rigged and checked; that is why this trek is not one to improvise. Then you climb over moraine to the pass, early in the season with some snow. At the top everything changes: on the far side there are no more ranks of peaks, just a white plain fading out to the west. That is the ice field, with nothing in between. That night we camp below the pass, among glaciers: the coldest of the trip.
Why it is called the Pass of the Wind
The westerly crosses the whole ice field with nothing to stop it and reaches this spot before anywhere else. There is no shelter on the pass: some days are calm, on others you wait for the lull between gusts. We go all the same; the guide picks the hour to cross. Read more →
Day 3: around Huemul
You circle Cerro Huemul over meadows and rock ridges with the Viedma Glacier below all day: crevasses, moraines like dark stripes on the ice and the pale rock it left as it shrank. It is the day you grasp its size. After Paso Huemul comes a long, steep descent to the Bahía de los Témpanos, where the ice the glacier sheds runs aground. Last night, with the lake in front of you.
Day 4: the boat past the Viedma
A short walk along the shore and, on most departures, the boat: first towards the front of the Viedma Glacier, the largest in Argentina, then across the lake to Bahía Túnel and back to town. When you book we confirm whether your departure includes it.
Why with a guide
- The river
- The Río Túnel Tyrolean traverse needs a harness, technique and someone to check it. The flow changes with the day and the heat.
- Unmarked stretches
- Part of the route has no waymarks, and in mist the passes look alike. Our guides walk this circuit season after season.
- The weather
- On Paso del Viento it changes in minutes. Knowing when to cross and when to wait is what keeps the trek safe.
- Registration
- Multi-day treks in Los Glaciares National Park are registered with the Park. We do it with you before we set off.
It runs in groups of 4 to 6, from US$1,282 per person, with a mountain guide, all meals, tent and camping gear. The Park fee and your personal gear are extra.
Who it is for
For people who walk regularly and are happy with 5 to 7 hours a day carrying a rucksack, several days in a row. No technical experience is needed: it is not climbing and you never set foot on the glacier. The hardest part is the descent from Paso Huemul. If you have never slept in a tent in the mountains, Laguna Toro is a good test first.
What to bring
- Broken-in boots with ankle support
- Waterproof: four days of loose moraine, bog and wet rock.
- Waterproof jacket and trousers
- Properly waterproof, not windproof. On the pass the rain comes sideways.
- Warm layers for the night
- Base layer, fleece or down, hat and gloves. Below the pass the night is around freezing, even in summer.
- Sleeping bag and mat
- Warm enough for close to zero. If you do not have one, ask us before you travel.
- A 50 to 65 litre rucksack
- With a hip belt.
- Trekking poles
- For the descents and the streams. On day three you will be glad of them.
When you book we send the full list. Here, what to bring from home and what you can buy in town. Read more →
When to go
We run it from November to March. November and early December can bring snow on the pass and rivers full of meltwater; January has the longest days; March, fewer people and the lenga turning red. There is wind all summer. Read more →
The other pass: Marconi
To the north, at the head of the Río Eléctrico valley, Paso Marconi is the other gateway to the ice. It is the start of what climbers call the Ice Cap circuit: up over Marconi, across the ice field below Cerro Torre’s west face and out over Paso del Viento. It is an expedition on the ice, with crevasses and sledges, and not one of our outings.
The Southern Patagonian Ice Field: what it is, its history and the border that still has no line. See →
Every glacier near El Chaltén and how to reach each one. See →
Questions
Where is Paso del Viento?
South-west of El Chaltén, above the Río Túnel valley, in Los Glaciares National Park. It is day two of the Huemul Circuit, after Laguna Toro.
How high is Paso del Viento?
Our track gives 1,403 metres at the highest point of the Huemul Circuit, which is Paso del Viento. Other sources give about 1,400 metres.
What can you see from Paso del Viento?
The Southern Patagonian Ice Field straight ahead, stretching west, and the head of the Viedma Glacier. It is the closest point to town from which you can see the ice field on foot.
How many days is the Huemul Circuit?
With us, four: Laguna Toro, Paso del Viento, Paso Huemul and Bahía de los Témpanos, and on the last day a boat past the Viedma Glacier on most departures.
Is there a Tyrolean traverse on the Huemul Circuit?
Yes, over the Río Túnel on day two, depending on the river level. With us the guide rigs the crossing and brings the equipment.
Can you do the Huemul Circuit without a guide?
People with experience of multi-day treks and Tyrolean traverses do it on their own, registering with the Park. It has unmarked stretches, the river crossing and strong wind on the pass. Without that experience, go with a guide.
How much is a guided Huemul Circuit?
From US$1,282 per person, in groups of 4 to 6, with a guide, all meals, a shared tent and communications. The park fee and personal gear are extra.
When is the best time for Paso del Viento?
Our departures run from November to March. Early in the season there may be snow on the pass; January has the most daylight and March the fewest people.
Is there a "Paso del Hielo" near El Chaltén?
There is no pass of that name. The passes leading to the ice field from El Chaltén are Paso del Viento, on the Huemul Circuit, and Paso Marconi, to the north.
What if it is very windy?
We go regardless. The guide picks the time of day to cross the pass and, if safety calls for it, changes a stretch. Only very heavy snow near winter moves the departure by a day.